From Filipe Palhoca Winery near Palmela to Peniche (137km)

 On Monday morning following our very relaxed stay at the vineyard we headed a few km's up the road into Palmela to walk one of the old windmill trails. The walk headed up a well trodden track along a ridge with breath-taking views south through the valley below filled with vineyards and olive groves and watched over by the Castelo de Palmela. In the distance you could see across to the sandbar of the Troia Peninsula where Matthew and family have enjoyed holidaying, and then looking north the view took us across the river Tagus to Lisbon - spectacular views in both directions as we walked along this old windmill ridgeway, some now derelict whilst others lovingly restored to homes. The track was edged with the familiar herbs of Rosemary, Thyme, sage, wild lavender, honeysuckle and fennel all sharing their scent in the Atlantic breeze. We walked on past the remains of old hilltop peasant settlements dating back to 11th Century with the only historic Muslim praying room preserved in this area.

 

 

 

Onwards then over the river Tagus towards Lisbon although we wont be stopping on this trip as Jack keeps reminding us he hates cities 😂 (but Chris and I will definitely be back to this area). As we crossed the longest of the 3 bridges crossing the river, we noticed large numbers of people wading the mud flats presumably collecting shell fish and razor clams. Others had buoys to help them swim out to flats further out into the river. This work, bent double knee deep in mud in the baking sun looked truly back breaking.

We look forward to visiting Lisbon one day, but today we headed on North. The landscape Hilly, with clusters of white houses with their terracotta rooves nestled amongst these green mounds, wind turbines again adorning all the high points along the way often in sharp contract with the old stumpy windmills still holding their place. Vineyards created order in this rolling landscape.

 

As much as I marvelled at the wide open plains of Spain with its rugged mountains, I am loving the rolling hills, vineyards and windmills of Portugal. It has a unique charm I had not expected.

There are new Eucalyptus plantations shimmering with their silver green leaves and then huge towering dark Eucalyptus forests towering along many of the road sides. We passed orchards full of apples and pears.

Peniche is a hard working fishing town and in the busy harbour it felt a bit like Weymouth in the sunshine, but it is also known in Europe as having world class surf beaches, and Supertubos is famous for its powerful tubes considered to be some of the best in Europe. Peniche had once been an Island, but had now become connected to the mainland by sand dunes. This part of Portugal between Lisbon and Porto is known as the Silver Coast due to its 150km of exquisite beaches, and they truly are.

 

Peniche Fortress:

 

Here we were staying in a carpark style motorhome park (ASA Peniche), mainly for its central location, services and excellent reviews. It was the first place so far to request our vaccination certificates and Jack to do a lateral flow test on arrival.

We found a lovely family run restaurant down a side street for supper and Jack had steak, but Chris and I both had shark caught off the Azures, and they were the most tender and delicious fish I have ever eaten. All served up with a clam sauce, Patatas bravas, homegrown salad and rice and a lot of love and passion from the family who ran it.

In the morning we cycled around the 10km circumference of the Island to view all the coast line and beaches with a few detours on foot to walk on Papoa, a rocky outcrop covered in Succulent wild flowers and alliums. There was plenty of opportunity for Winnie to get out and run beside us along the sandy tracks. Sadly it was quite a calm day so no incredible waves for us to witness, but all in all well worth the visit